Canary Islands

Last year I visited the Canary Islands for the first time and liked it a lot. Islands and archipelagos have always held my special interest, especially when they come with a whole range of endemic species. Of the 16 species of endemic reptiles I could observe 12 species last year. The 4 missing species are 2 incredibly rare and endangered Gallotia species from La Gomera and El Hierro. Also a Tarentola and Chalcides species living on the eastern Canary Islands I had yet to see in the wild. The gecko is incredibly common and widespread where it occurs. The skink however is a rare sight and can only be found on a few isolated areas on the eastern islands. It seems it is found more often on Fuerteventura (and less so on Lanzarote) and early spring seems the best time of year to look for them. Together with my friends Jasper and Sander I made a plan to visit Fuerteventura and not only look for the incredibly rare skink, but a whole range of other endemic animals and plants as well. During our trip we had wonderful spring weather with temperatures often rising towards 30 °C. However, as often on the Canary Islands, a strong cold wind made us wear our jackets from time to time and we even had a single rain shower. Perfect conditions to explore!

16th of February 2025

Some trips start with a bang, and this was one of those trips. After a smooth journey I arrived on Fuerteventura from Munich and Jasper and Sander from Amsterdam. We decided to first drive to the accommodation in Antigua and then hit the field. Along the way I spotted a nice looking ruin with plenty of stones to flip and we couldn't resist the urge to have a quick pee(k). Immediately we spotted the first Atlantic Lizards (Gallotia atlantica) and East Canary Geckos (Tarentola angustimentalis). Sander called out after a few minutes, saying he flipped something special and Jasper and I ran towards him. We couldn't believe our eyes as he had found an East Canary Skink (Chalcides simonyi)! Not even half an hour on the island and we had already found all three endemic reptiles! What a fantastic start! After ample admiration we drove to Antigua, checked in to our cozy accommodation and then drove towards a nearby location for skinks to see if we could find more of them. This wasn't the case and we only found more of the ubiquitous Gallotia and Tarentola and a Conehead Mantis (Empusa pennata). In the late afternoon we drove north to explore the Tindaya Plains. In the last light of the day we tried to find some of the iconic desert birds that can be found in North Africa as well as the Eastern Canary Islands. We were in luck as without much hazzle we spotted three Canarian Houbara Bustards (Chlamydotis undulata fuerteventurae), an endemic subspecies that is slightly smaller and also has a slightly different colouration. Over the moon by these great sightings we had a fabulous dinner at Restaurante Los Podomorfos in Tindaya and afterwards explored a small stream near an estuary. The water here turned out more brackish than anticipated (even upstream) so we didn't see any frogs, but the Eels (Anguilla anguilla) and Guppies (Poecilia reticulata) didn't seem to mind the salty water. 

17th of February 2025

We got up early and had breakfast at Pulido Alfonso which turned out the perfect place to also get a takeaway lunch. We drove into the central part of the island where the hills and valleys around the former capitol Betancuria provide a slightly more lush environment. In the Barranco de las Peñitas we searched for all sorts of animals and quickly spotted the first Atlantic Lizards (Gallotia atlantica) and introduced Gran Canaria Giant Lizards (Gallotia stehlini). Both species were quite shy, so photography required some patience. e also spotted several bird species such as Trumpeter Finches (Bucanetes githagineus amantum), African Blue Tit (Cyanistes teneriffae degener), Egyptian Vultures (Neophron percnopterus) and even the endemic Fuerteventura Stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae). Out and about were also entire hordes of Barbary Ground Squirrels (Atlantoxerus getulus) which are not native to the island, but have adopted well to the island life. Wherever you sit down for lunch, several of these furry critters come and inspect if you are willing to share your food. Insects were hard to find though, and while we were hoping to see some endemic butterflies or grasshoppers, we had to return empty-handed. We decided to try our luck in a different valley and there we had more luck. With Berthelot's Pipits (Anthus berthelotii) hopping around and Canarian Ravens (Corvus corax canariensis) playing in the sky, we explored the dry and hot slopes. At this location we couldn't miss the Canarian Caralluma (Apteranthes burchardii burchardii) and in a thorny shrub I even spotted the weird-looking Purpurarian Stone Grasshopper (Purpuraria erna). A genus with two species, each endemic to an Eastern Canary Island. In the last light of the day we explored a valley with a small freshwater stream which is a real rarity on the island. However, there was only a small trickle left after a dry winter, but we knew this would be our best shot at finding frogs on the island. Besides finding freshwater and frogs, finding an open restaurant proved to be a challenge as well. In the picturesque town of Pájara we finally found an open bar. Sadly with barely edible food and a bill that didn't match with our expectations... After dark we explored the freshwater stream and with great ease found a few Stripeless Tree Frogs (Hyla meridionalis) and East Canary Geckos (Tarentola angustimentalis).

18th of February 2025

On this barren, desert island we didn't really expect rain, but this morning it rained hard and heavily. Our alarm went off early, but we could crawl back in bed for a bit longer. We decided to explore the north of the island and drove to the Tindaya plains again. This was a good decision as it didn't take us long to discover all our three targets here. First we saw a few Canarian Houbara Bustards (Chlamydotis undulata fuerteventurae) and just a bit later we had a Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) at one side of the car and Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorius cursor) on the other. Splendid! In the afternoon the wind picked up even more and we did a windy hike towards the Vólcan Calderón Hondo. Barbary Ground Squirrels (Atlantoxerus getulus) were everywhere as tourists feed them here, but luckily we also saw some native wildlife such as East Canary Gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis), Atlantic Lizard (Gallotia atlantica), Canarian Crested Grasshopper (Dericorys lobata) and Canary Islands Desert Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor koenigi). Then we explored the coast at Corralejo where the sand blasting in our faces wasn't really enjoyable, so we had an early dinner in Villaverde at Pizzeria Abuela María. After sunset we went tidal pooling at the coast, but the high waves and the tide weren't in our favour. When I was almost grabbed by a strong wave, I had wet shoes for the remainder of the trip. On the drive back we did see a Canarian Shrew (Crocidura canariensis) race across the road and an Algerian Hedgehog (Atelerix algirus) going at a more leisurely pace. 

19th of February 2025

Today we explored the southern part of the island and did a whole range of small stops to search for endangered endemics and some odd exotic species. First up was a search at a garden centre to see if we could turn up the Flowerpot Snake (Indotyphlops braminus) which wasn't the case, despite turning dozens of flowerpots. We did see Yellow-browed Warbler (Phylloscopus inornatus), which is a rare vagrant to the islands, and the introduced Red-vented Bulbul (Pynonotus cafer). Near Esquinzo we saw West Canaries Lizard (Gallotia galloti eisentrauti) without much trouble, but quickly exchanged the bustling hotel resorts for an abandoned beach further south. It was a very hot day so rolling in the warm sand and playing in the waves was a much better alternative. In the afternoon we drove into the Parque Natural Jandía to photograph the micro-endemic Handia Spurge (Euphorbia handiensis) and Canary Island Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis). Also East Canary Gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis), Atlantic Lizard (Gallotia atlantica) and Fuerteventura Sand Grasshopper (Sphingonotus fuerteventurae) were readily seen here. At Morro Jable we searched for exotic birds at an abandoned zoo, and indeed we soon recognized a call we all knew from our trips to the African mainland. In a garden we spotted a couple of Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash). While the sun was getting low we drove into a sandy desert area to search for a rarely seen endemic of the Canarian Islands, the Canary Island Camel Spider (Eusimonia wunderlichi). It indeed proved to be hard to find one, but finally I saw a tiny spider run away after the umpteenth rock I turned. A very happy moment! After a nice meal in Costa Calma we headed back to our accommodation.

20th of February 2025

The only endemic species missing from our wishlist was the only endemic butterfly of the island. We decided to dedicate our morning search for this butterfly, which also happens to live in the same places as the endemic skink. So we drove to the surroundings of Vega de Río Palmas and Betancuria where we scanned rocky walls in overgrown gardens for the skink and looked for a small white butterfly fluttering around over the remaining patches with wildflowers. It was tough going and with the skink we didn't have any more luck. But while walking back to the car, Jasper spotted a Fuerteventura Green-striped White (Euchloe hesperidum). Finally success! In the process we also saw Atlantic Lizards (Gallotia atlantica) and one more Gran Canaria Giant Lizard (Gallotia stehlini).

Another species missing was the Red-billed Tropicbird (Phaeton aethereus). Everytime we were close to Tindaya we scanned the cliffs and the seas, but didn't have luck so far. Naturally, on our last full day on the island we had to try again. We saw Barbary Falcon (Falco peregrinus peregrinoides) and Cory's Shearwater (Calonectris borealis). But sadly not the much desired Tropicbird. The only real miss this trip. With the high temperatures we spend the afternoon relaxing in the hot sand on a beach and afterwards drove around the Tindaya plains and to a nearby waterbassin. There we saw several Ruddy Shelducks (Tadorna ferruginea) and many Egyptian Vultures (Neophron percnopterus). Finding a restaurant in the touristy coastal strip was a problem without reservation. So our plans to eat sushi were cancelled, and we had to settle for some Chinese food instead. Afterwards we explored tidal pools nearby and sang funny songs to the local cats one last time. 

21st of February 2025

We were all sad to leave, but decided to make the most of the last day and spend the morning looking for skinks and butterflies close to the accommodation. With skinks we couldn't repeat the success of the first day, but we did see more butterflies this time. Several Fuerteventura Green-striped Whites (Euchloe hesperidum) and Greenish Black-tip (Elphinstonia charlonia). Neither species were really willing to pose for a picture though... And then it was time to head to the airport. Jasper and Sander would fly back to Amsterdam via Barcelona, while I flew via Tenerife back to Munich. Although the trip was short, we had a fantastic trip!

 Species

Stripeless Tree Frog (Hyla meridionalis)

East Canary Gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis)

East Canary Skink (Chalcides simonyi)

Atlantic Lizard (Gallotia atlantica ssp. mahoratae)

West Canaries Lizard (Gallotia galloti ssp. eisentrauti)

Gran Canaria Giant Lizard (Gallotia stehlini)

Native herpetofauna of Fuerteventura

Introduced herpetofauna of Fuerteventura

Many thanks to Luis Albero, Bram Conings, David Dopereiro, Annelies Jacobs, Iván Ruiz Barranco & Andreas Schäberle.